shikumen

Between the towering skyscrapers of Lujiazui and the sleek storefronts of Xintiandi lies a different Shanghai. Here, laundry flutters above narrow alleyways. The scent of sizzling street food mingles with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee. And around every corner, a new discovery awaits. This is Tianzifang (田子坊) . A warren of traditional Shikumen (stone-gate) houses transformed into...

There is a particular kind of magic that happens when you turn off a busy Shanghai thoroughfare and duck into a quiet lane house neighborhood. The noise of the city softens. The plane trees grow thicker overhead. And suddenly, you are walking through history. Lane houses – or lilong (里弄) in Chinese – are the architectural soul of Old Shanghai. For decades, they have been the backdrop...