shikumen

There is a corner of Shanghai where grey brick Shikumen walls meet glass shopfronts. Where an alley that once led to a family kitchen now leads to an Italian restaurant. Where the past was not torn down. It was redesigned. Xintiandi is not the oldest part of Shanghai. It is not the quietest or the cheapest. But no other neighborhood tells the story of the city‘s transformation quite like this...

Between the towering skyscrapers of Lujiazui and the sleek storefronts of Xintiandi lies a different Shanghai. Here, laundry flutters above narrow alleyways. The scent of sizzling street food mingles with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee. And around every corner, a new discovery awaits. This is Tianzifang (田子坊) . A warren of traditional Shikumen (stone-gate) houses transformed into...

There is a particular kind of magic that happens when you turn off a busy Shanghai thoroughfare and duck into a quiet lane house neighborhood. The noise of the city softens. The plane trees grow thicker overhead. And suddenly, you are walking through history. Lane houses – or lilong (里弄) in Chinese – are the architectural soul of Old Shanghai. For decades, they have been the backdrop...