Some Shanghai compounds chase fashion. Ambassy Court (鸿艺豪苑) never needed to. Sitting on Huaihai Middle Road near Wulumuqi Road — consulate country, library country, the dead centre of the Former French Concession's most established stretch — it has quietly housed diplomats, executives and long-haul expat families since 2001, and remains the definition of a certain kind of Shanghai address: not...

Every expat's Shanghai grocery journey follows the same arc. Week one: bewilderment in a local supermarket, holding a vegetable you cannot name. Month one: discovery that groceries arrive at your door in under thirty minutes. Month three: you know exactly which three places have real cheese, proper bread, and the good olive oil — and you shop better than you ever did at home. This guide compresses...

Somewhere on Fuxing Middle Road tonight, a visitor is standing in a tiny sandwich shop, wondering if they've been pranked. They haven't. Behind the drinks fridge is a door, behind the door is a staircase, and up the staircase is one of the best cocktail bars in Asia. Shanghai didn't invent the speakeasy (*), but the Former French Concession perfected its modern form — and hunting hidden bars through...

Every visitor to Shanghai walks the Bund. Almost none of them know what they're looking at. That kilometer and a half of stone facades along the Huangpu — the Bund (外滩, Wàitān) — is the most concentrated museum of early 20th-century commercial architecture on earth: banks, trading houses, hotels and clubs built when Shanghai was Asia's financial capital the first time around. Here's how to...

Here's a neighbourhood truth: in central Shanghai, your gym is a bigger daily-life decision than your metro line. The FFC and Jing'an pack more fitness options per square kilometre than almost anywhere in Asia — mega-gyms, boutique studios, 24-hour budget chains, yoga in heritage villas — and the right choice depends entirely on how you actually train. Here's the honest map, from people whose...

Every relocation forum has the same question, asked weekly, answered badly: "What should I budget for rent in Shanghai?" The answers range from "¥5,000 is plenty" to "you can't live decently under ¥40,000," and both answers are correct — for different people, in different neighborhoods, at different standards. So here are real numbers, from people who negotiate Shanghai leases for a living —...

Ask ten long-term expat families in west-central Shanghai to name the compound they'd move to tomorrow, and Central Residences (嘉里华庭) will come up more often than any other. It's the compound with the waiting-list reputation — the one where "a three-bed just came up" travels through school WeChat groups like breaking news. Here's why, and what the reputation gets right and wrong. Where and...

If you've spent any time apartment-hunting in the Former French Concession, you've seen the word. Hengfu (衡复). It's in listings, on heritage plaques, in the name of the area's own museum. But most people — including plenty of long-term expats — couldn't tell you exactly what it means or where its edges actually are. Here's the real answer, with the numbers checked. What Hengfu Actually...

Every city has a soundtrack. Shanghai's is jazz — and unlike most cities that borrowed the genre, Shanghai can claim it as autobiography. This was Asia's jazz capital when the music was new: the 1920s and 30s city of ballrooms and taxi dancers, where American bandleaders took residencies, where Chinese composers fused jazz with folk melodies and invented shidaiqu — the pop music of old Shanghai —...

Ask visitors to name a Shanghai temple and they'll say the Jing'an Temple or Jade Buddha Temple — coach parks full, incense smoke and selfie sticks. Meanwhile, a few metro stops south in our own Xuhui District stands something older, larger, and somehow still under-visited: Longhua Temple (龙华寺), the oldest and biggest ancient temple complex in Shanghai, with a pagoda that has watched over the city...