Avocado Lady

Every expat's Shanghai grocery journey follows the same arc. Week one: bewilderment in a local supermarket, holding a vegetable you cannot name. Month one: discovery that groceries arrive at your door in under thirty minutes. Month three: you know exactly which three places have real cheese, proper bread, and the good olive oil — and you shop better than you ever did at home. This guide compresses...

There is a particular kind of magic that happens when you turn off a busy Shanghai thoroughfare and duck into a quiet lane house neighborhood. The noise of the city softens. The plane trees grow thicker overhead. And suddenly, you are walking through history. Lane houses – or lilong (里弄) in Chinese – are the architectural soul of Old Shanghai. For decades, they have been the backdrop...