Art Deco Shanghai

If you've spent any time apartment-hunting in the Former French Concession, you've seen the word. Hengfu (衡复). It's in listings, on heritage plaques, in the name of the area's own museum. But most people — including plenty of long-term expats — couldn't tell you exactly what it means or where its edges actually are. Here's the real answer, with the numbers checked. What Hengfu Actually...

The elevator opens directly into your apartment. No shared hallway. No neighbors walking past your door. That is the first thing you notice about Kingsville. The building sits at 198 Anfu Road, tucked back from the street behind a small courtyard. The twin towers are 29 stories each, but there are only 102 units total. Most floors have just two apartments. On some floors, there is only one. The...